During the autumn months trees are in a state of transformation and restructuring. As it moves towards dormancy or a latent period, the tree is preparing itself for winter. It can perceive the changing temperatures and photoperiod and abides by the internal networks that induce the cessation of growth. A natural process of leaf shedding, termed “senescence,” generally indicates that a tree is getting ready for winter. While trees may appear to be idle during this time, they are actually laboring to manage their metabolic system and decelerate some physiological behaviors, like photosynthesis and transpiration. Keep in mind that trees will continue to leisurely grow roots, respire, and uptake water and nutrients during the latent period. Winter can be a challenging stretch for a tree and may require some protection to stay vigorous and uninhibited from pests and pathogens. Unfortunately the chill of winter promotes detrimental insects that take shelter in the tree and linger until spring when they reawaken their vicious lifecycles. Little steps and some time investment can help to winterize your tree and give it a head start come spring.
I am not a fan of pruning, but it can be beneficial to prune dead or diseased tree branches come late fall or early winter, preferably after a good frost. Dormant pruning guards against exposing the open wound to insects and disease that are prevalent during the fall season. Minor pruning might reduce future storm damage and protects trees against overwintering pests and pathogens. You may choose to remove all deadwood that is noticeable, but it does not hurt the tree to leave it affixed. Low, sweeping limbs and foliage that touch the soil encourage detrimental pests as well as other trials, so you may want to trim those as well as remove any injured and dilapidated twigs or branches. New sprouts that have grown at the tree base or along stems and branches cause aesthetic issues but do not cause detriment to the tree.
Immature trees are particularly defenseless to temperature fluctuations and moisture and require mulching to shelter their young root systems. Organic mulch is insurance that both requirements will be met amongst chill and desiccation brought by winter. Mulching is an outstanding routine for both dormant and active tree species. It is important to apply organic mulch over the soil surface approximately two to four inches deep. The mulch should be applied to the drip line of the tree canopy and pulled away from the trunk of the tree. Organic mulch is perfect for insulating root systems, maintaining soil moisture, as well as recycling nutrients back into the soil which can then be used by the tree. In other words, mulch can serve as a natural fertilizer to the soil. No other fertilizer is required by the tree, as it uses leaves to make food and stores energy for the latent period. Applying nitrogen at this time of year would encourage vegetative growth and put further strain on the tree.
Desiccating winter winds and temperate daytime temperatures can dry and stress a tree abruptly. Late fall watering may be required where soils are frigid but have not yet frozen, and the climate has been fairly dry. Late fall and winter droughts call for water applications to the tree and surrounding soils as with summer droughts, but it is effortless to over-water in winter with little water evaporation and transpiration from the tree. Be sure to monitor the soil for moisture and cease application once the ground is frozen. If wildlife damage is a problem in your area, you may want to protect the trunk of an immature tree late fall to prevent any damage to the bark.
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